Rabbit Care
Hello please excuse any spelling mistakes you are likly to find on this page as I am still in the middle of editing.
Thankyou so much
Elsa x
Caring for a rabbit can be a very easy and enjoyable expericence so long as you do as much research as you possibly can. Please take my advise and never get all your information from just one website as there many different opinions on how to keep different breeds. The information I have given below is mainly detailed on how to keep a miniature or a medium sized rabbit.
Rabbit or No Rabbit?
When you are considering to buy a rabbit please keep in mind that the average life span depending on the size and breed usually ranges from 7 to 12 years if not more. Please don't allow me to put you off though as I also know that in those years you will have together rabbits are fantasic, intelligent and social animals that can give years of love, affection and tons fun, well worth the commitment if say so myself.
Choosing Your Rabbit.
Breeder or Pet Shop?
Either can be a good choice although from personal experience I recommend an enthusiastic breeder as is most cases I find they take more pride in the upbringing of each individual kit. If buying from a pet shop make sure the all bunnies are handled often as most animals are normally only ever in pet shops purely to make money. P.s bear in mind most rabbits that find their way into pet shops are usually through accidently pregnancys or litters that the previous owner couldn't sell.
Which Breed?
This all depends on what you look you prefer and how much you want to spend, obviously the larger the rabbit the more its going to cost to feed, house ect however, larger bunnies are known for their very cuddly, lovable natures (lap rabbit). I find that the smaller the breed is, the bigger and tougher it seems to assume he/she is lol, (this is what many call "little man syndrome") anybody who owns a very small breed eg Netherland Dwarfs will know exactly what I mean although there are lots out there that proove me wrong all the time. (This just goes to show you that rabbits can be just as individual as any pet)
Remember to always research each breed as all are completely different!
When you feel you have found the right bunny make sure that you are able handle the rabbit prior to purchasing as this usually confirms whether he/she is right for you. A rabbit that struggles when being handled is usually scared or uncomfortable, try to rearrange the rabbit either up against your chest or sit him/her on your lap. If the rabbit has been handled correctly and feaquently before there should be no reason why he/she shouldn't settle within a short space of time.
Maintenance
Daily Maintenance
**Hygene**
Rabbits are generally very clean animals and tend to use only one area in there hutch as a toilet, once each day inorder to stop access build up of waste and to avoid fly attraction, it is advised to clear out this area.
**Food + Water**
You will need to refresh your bunnies water everyday and will need to be checked more often during extreams of weather eg, very hot or very cold days. Obviously during hot weather your rabbit will drink alot more to keep themself hydrated and during very cold weather your bunny's water bottle is likly to freeze over and will need to be defrosted ASAP. I personaly recomend you invest in buying a 'bottle sock' as this will prevent the water freezing, more information on these products can be seen on other websites for example
'pets at home.com'.
Always make sure your rabbit's food bowl is at least half full and that they have an unlimitless amount of fresh hay.
Weekly Maintenance
Weekly Maintenance will consist of a full clean on your rabbits hutch and a rutine health check.
Checking Your Rabbit's Health
This should be done at least once a week or as often as you handle your rabbit.
**Teeth**
Check your rabbits teeth are in good condition, straight and are alligned perfectly as rabbits teeth are 'open routed' meaning that they never stop growing throughout their life.
**Claws**
Your rabbit claws are just the same as peoples finger nails in that they also never stop growing, if your rabbits claws are not constantly worn down they will grow to a length that will make your rabbits feet uncomfortable to walk on. (Please ask your vet about this)
**Overall Condition**
Ensure that your rabbit is of his/her usual healthy weight, as any sudden weight loss can indicate a more serious problem meaning you must seek advise from your vet imediatly! Also as you get to know your rabbit you will develope a knolage of his/her usual behavior and if this also suddenly changes and/or your rabbit becomes lathargic seek a vets advise. Please don't be imediatly alarmed as it could simply just an 'off day' however its better to be safe then sorry.
Recomended Rabbit Food
I personally recomend 'Excel' rabbit pellets as I find the ingredience are of a much better quality, recomended by vets and all my rabbits absolutely love it! Along with 'Excel', I also mix in 'Mayfield, Fruty Rabbit', this gives them a bit of a veriaty and I have never found any of my rabbits to dislike it as it also contains their fraviote dried banna chips and obviously overall has a great taste!
Plenty of fresh hay is alway provided to all my rabbits as this usually makes up for about 70% of their diet.
Hand Rearing Ophan Kits
This peice is on what to do if the worst comes about and you have no choice but to hand rear.
Where ever possible always give the mother every chance to rear her own litter as not only can hand rearing jepodise the kits survival but it can also be both phicaly and mently challeging.
If you feel hand rearing is the best option for the survival of the kits please read below for some helpful pointers.
Warming the Kits
First off if you have found the kits to have been scattered it is likely they will have begun to get cold in which case you will need to bring them back to a comfortable warm temperature.
This can be done by placing all the kits together in a small box lined with an old shirt or towel then make a nest of shredded cotton wool big enough to place all the kits in.
Making the Formula
What you will need
*Lactol
(Powdered milk for kittens and puppys)
(This can be found in most pet shops)
*Full Fat Whole Goats Milk
(Found in any supermarket)
To make 300mls place two and a half scoops of Lactol in a bottle with 100mls of goats milk and 200mls of boiling water. mix together and shake well in the bottle to ensure there are no lumps.
What to feed them with?
What you will need
*1x 10ml dropper
(found in most if not all phamicies)
*1x Small Water Paint Brush
(found in most stationaries or arts and crafts shops)
Feeding the Kits
Once the kits have warmed and begun moving about you can now try them with their first feed.
Dip the brust in milk ensuring the milk isn't to hot and place it into the kits mouth, slowly adding a drop of milk as it sucks it off the end. Never force the milk into the kits mouth as this can result in the kit breathing the formula in and drowning.
Allow the kit to feed until it pulls away and stops sucking.
Repeat this every 4 hours untill the kits hit 2 weeks old.
**From 2 weeks old**
Once the kits are 2 weeks old lenghen the time between feeds to every 6 hours.
Also as the kits hit this age start to add small amounts of rabbit fecies to their milk. The feices you will be looking for are the ones that are soft and look like several berries stuck together. This when added to the milk provides the babies tummys with essential bactiria that will in the following weeks help them addust to solid foods.
Add one of the droppings to every 100mls of milk and shake well.
(don't add straight to boiling water as this will kill off any good bactiria.)
Continue to add the feicies to their milk until the kits turn 4 weeks old.
**From 3/4 weeks old**
From this age you can now place them in a small cage or hutch kept indoors.
In one corner place a hot water bottle surrounded by straw that they can snuggle next to keep warm if they do happen to get a little chilly.
Also at this age you can now introduce 2x water bottles, one filled with just water and the other with their milk formula, this just allows them to get a drink as and when it suits them.
Remember to always refresh the milk every 24 hours.
Also from 3 weeks old you can now start to introduce solid food.
(I personally recommed the Super Excel Junior and Dwarf Pellets as the kits will find this easier to digest)
**From 7 weeks old**
From 7 weeks old you can now start to water their milk fomula down by half and half untill the kits are 8 weeks old.
Once the kits turn 8 weeks old you can now remove the milk formula completely.
